Setting sail on a small yacht adventure in the Aegean Sea has been a dream come true. As I stood on the flybridge, the warm Mediterranean breeze tousling my hair, I couldn't help but feel an exhilarating sense of freedom and excitement. With the crystal clear turquoise waters shimmering under the sun and the mesmerizing Greek islands on the horizon, I knew this journey would be filled with unforgettable moments. Each island promises a unique charm, from ancient ruins and quaint fishing villages to hidden coves and lively marina life. We were ready to embrace it all, savoring the storied landscapes and spontaneous adventures that awaited us in this sailor's paradise.
I am excited to share my experiences with you. CaptK and I were joined by another couple and a local Captain, aboard a 43ft Motor Catamaran, similar to the one we own in the British Virgin Islands. All Captains must have an International Certificate of Competence in the Mediterranean Cruising Grounds. Even though CaptK is an experience boat captain, we always use a local Captain in the Mediterranean. They know the best places to stop and the best restaurants. The Aegean cruising grounds are a perfect blend of ancient history, stunning views, and delectable cuisine. Here’s a day-by-day recap of our voyage.
Day Zero, Marina Zea Just Outside Athens Greece
Marina Zea in Athens, Greece is a bustling hub of excitement and adventure, with its picturesque waterfront setting and stunning views of the Aegean Sea. This is where many small yacht charters begin. As I strolled along the promenade lined with charming cafes and bustling boutiques and shops, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. The gleaming yachts bobbing in the harbor, the salty sea air tingling my senses, and the warm Greek sun shining down on me, it was a moment of pure joy.
We are Moorings Yacht Owners, the largest international yacht charter company in the world. As part of our agreement with the Moorings, we can use a similar boat at most of their bases around the world. Marina Zea is where the Moorings base is located for the Aegean cruising ground. I knew that from Marina Zea, our next sailing adventure was just a heartbeat away. I could not wait to set sail and explore the magical islands and hidden gems of the Aegean. Marina Zea was the perfect starting point for our journey and I was ready to embrace every moment.
Day 1: Epidaurus - The Start of an Epic Journey
We embarked on our small yacht from Athens, greeted by the warm Mediterranean breeze. Our first stop was the historic port of Epidaurus Town. This village could not have been more enchanting. The crystal clear waters and friendly locals welcomed us as we "med moored" at the dock, ready to explore. A short stroll from the marina led us to a well stocked grocery store bursting with an array of locally grown produce that made our mouths water. From ripe tomatoes to fragrant herbs and succulent local fruits, we gathered a bounty to enjoy on board.
Ruins are a Short Walk from the Marina in Epidaurus Town
After storing our provisions, we headed out on a short walk through orange and olive groves to the ancient ruins of Epidaurus, including a wonderful little Amphitheater. This small, yet captivating theatre, is where the ancient Greeks once gathered. Wandering amongst the historic remnants, I could almost hear the echoes of past performances and imagine the people that once thrived here. It was the perfect start to our journey, blending the serenity of cruising with the richness of history. For relaxation seekers, there are also pristine beaches ideal for snorkeling and swimming, close by. Scuba diving is exceptional in this area, you may discover ancient treasures.
Dinner at To Perivoli tis Gogos
For dinner, we indulged at To Perivoli tis Gogos. The garden setting where we dined under orange trees was charming. The homemade dishes, especially the moussaka and slow roasted lamb, were divine. The warm hospitality made us feel like family. This Taverna was the first of many outstanding dining recommendations from our Captain Vasilis Stafylias. The garden like setting mixed with the scent of fresh, local dishes, created an absolutely magical atmosphere. It was the ideal start, setting a delicious and adventurous tone for the days ahead.
The Great Theatre of Epidaurus
The next morning we were off on a morning excursion to The Great Theatre of Epidaurus and the ruins of the healing village that surrounded the theatre. We began the day with a scenic taxi ride through winding roads, soaking in the breathtaking views of the sun-kissed landscapes and miles of olive trees. As we approached the ancient theatre, the air buzzed with history. This massive outdoor theatre, also known as the Sanctuary of Asciepius, was built from limestone in the 340 - 330 BCE.
Starting from the circular stage at the bottom, 55 rows extend outward providing seating for up to 14,000 people. But, it’s not so much the size that is impressive, but it is the acoustics. You can test it out for yourself. Venture high in the stands and you can literally hear a pin drop from the stage. It works the other way as well. Stand on the stage, whisper a few words and listen as they echo back off the surrounding limestone. We imagined the ancient performances that once graced this majestic venue and felt a deep connection to the past. The blend of natural beauty and historical grandeur made our first morning truly unforgettable.
Sightseeing and Lunch on Poros, Greece
It is a short ride from Epidaurus on the mainland to the island of Poros. I could not help but feel a thrill of excitement as it had been 40 years since I last visited this island on a day trip with CaptK. After docking, we explored the quaint streets lined with neoclassical houses. We made our way to the clock tower, standing gracefully against the azure sky. It seemed to welcome us with open arms. Wandering through the charming streets, I was delighted by the quaint boutiques brimming with unique finds.
The rich history of Poros whispered through every corner. History lovers will want to visit Moni Zoodochou Pigis, an 18th century monastery built around the island’s only fresh water spring. If time permits, you can rent a scooter to explore the island including sandy beaches shaded with pine and orange trees. Wandering around this picturesque island, we found a delightful blend of beauty and heritage.
Lunch at Poseidon Restaurant, Poros Greece
Lunch was at the quayside Poseidon Restaurant in Poros. From the moment we walked in, the stunning water views and inviting ambiance set the tone for an unforgettable meal. The menu was a treasure trove of local delights, succulent octopus, tangy tzatziki, and the most divine shrimp I have ever tasted. All the seafood is fresh caught by the family that owns the restaurant. Every mouthful was bursting with flavors, and the staff were incredibly attentive and friendly, making us feel right at home. It's safe to say that lunch at Poseidon was more than a meal, it was a wonderful experience that captured the heart and soul of Poros.
Spetses Greece, Our Second Overnight Stop
Exploring Spetses by Foot
It was a short ride from Poros to our overnight stop in Spetses. Stepping onto the docks of Spetses was stepping into an idyllic fishing village. Located in Greece's Saronic Gulf, this island is a treasure trove of maritime history, with a breathtaking shoreline lined with elegant yachts and charming fishing boats that paint a picture of timeless beauty.
Spetses has a storied past, dating back to the Greek War of Independence, where its brave seafarers played a pivotal role in Greek Independence. The island flourished during the early 18th century, developing into a significant naval power, dominating the major shipping routes of the Mediterranean. Today, the two-hundred year old captains’ mansions lining the coast are testimony to the vast wealth and grandeur of that time. Their legacy still palpable in the town's aura.
Dinner at Patralis Psarotaverna, Spetses
As the sun began to set, casting golden hues over the tranquil waters, I felt a rush of tranquility. We enjoyed dinner at Patralis Psarotaverna, just off the quay on the eastern side of town. We were welcomed into the cozy taverna by the aroma of freshly grilled seafood and herbs, instantly whetting my appetite. I savored every bite of the juicy, well seasoned mussels. The crisp, refreshing Greek salad was a perfect complement. The menu is large offering meats, traditional greek dishes and even a burger. The lively atmosphere, complete with the hum of happy conversations, made the evening truly magical.
Morning Explorations of Spetses, Greece
Exploring Spetses by foot is the best way to experience the town. From the moment we set foot on the island, I was captivated by its charm and rich history. After some wandering, we decided to stop at a cafe for a cappuccino and a chance to rest our feet. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air, and I couldn't help but admire the view of the sparkling sea in front of me. Next, we made our way to the fish market, where the colorful array of freshly caught seafood left us spoilt for choice.
Finally, we strolled along the cobblestone streets, marveling at the historic buildings that seemed to whisper stories of the island's past. The mermaid statue standing proudly by the seafront instantly caught my eye, and I couldn't resist taking a selfie with her. With each step, I felt more and more in love with Spetses and couldn't wait to discover what was around the next corner.
Nafplio, Greece Our Third Overnight Stop
Views of Bourtzi Castle From Sea
As we sailed into the gleaming waters of Nafplio, the sight of Boutzi Castle took my breath away. Perched majestically on its sandy islet, this historic fortress has stood watch over the harbor since the 15th century. The Venetians built it to protect the town from pirate raids, and its past echoes in every stone. The castle's silhouette against the bright Grecian sky was a vision of elegance and strength, blending centuries of history with natural beauty. The cerulean sea shimmered, reflecting the grandeur of Boutzi Castle, and in that moment, I felt as though I had sailed right into a painting.
The Views of Nafplio, Greece as We Sail into the Harbor
As we sail into the harbor of Nafplio on the northern part of the Peloponnese Peninsula, stunning views unfold before us. The lower city walls hug the coastline, their ancient stones whispering tales of history, while the formidable fortress stands proudly, a sentinel overlooking the azure waters below. Above it all, the majestic upper castle commands the landscape, its towers piercing the sky and offering a glimpse into a bygone era. The blend of sparkling sea, rugged fortifications, and the charm of Nafplio creates a scene of unparalleled beauty that makes my heart soar.
Exploring Nafplio, Greece by Foot
Strolling through the charming streets of Nafplio by foot was a history lesson within each block. Each step revealed traces of the city's history, from the stunning Venetian architecture to the imposing Palamidi Fortress perched high above. We wandered through winding alleys lined with brightly colored bougainvillea, uncovering gems like the ornate Church of Agios Spyridon. We walked to the town square and marvel at Vouleftikon, the immense domed building where the first parliament of the unified Greek nation met in the early 19th century.
Across the square, there is an Archeological Museum housed in another beautiful Venetian building, for those seeking greater details on the history of Nafplio. Our adventure led us to the lively Syntagma Square, where locals and tourists alike enjoyed the bustling atmosphere. We enjoyed a casual lunch at Gyrkomeio, a cozy spot perfect for sampling delicious Greek gyros, souvlakis and sipping on refreshing drinks. The combination of historic allure and modern charm made exploring Nafplio an unforgettable experience!
Sunset from the Quay in Nafplio, Greece
As the sun began its slow descent over Nafplio, painting the sky with hues of gold and pink, we found ourselves on the deck of our catamaran gently bobbing along the quay, with a cocktail in our hand. The ancient city looked magical against the colorful backdrop, its timeless charm magnified by the soft glow of twilight. The breeze whispered through the harbor, carrying the scent of salt and adventure, while the reflection of the pastel sky danced on the tranquil water. With every passing moment, I felt a deep sense of serenity and gratitude, utterly captivated by the simple yet profound beauty of this perfect evening.
Dinner At Bouros Psarosavouios Taverna, Nafplio Greece
Our dinner at Bouros Psarosavouios Taverna along the quay in Nafplio was simply delicious. We indulged in a feast of delights. The seafood pasta was a symphony of flavors, with perfectly cooked al dente noodles intertwined with succulent calamari and shrimp. The fried sardines were crispy perfection, each bite bursting with a fresh, salty tang. But the highlight had to be the grilled prawns, charred just right, smoky and tender. All of this was wonderfully complemented by a crisp glass of Greek white wine, adding the perfect touch to a truly memorable evening by the sea. Bouros Psarosavouios Taverna is a traditional Greek Fish Taverna. If there are meat lovers in your group, Valaora Resto Nafplio is a good option.
Morning Explorations of Palamidi Fortress, Nafplio Greece
This morning our visit to Palamidi Fortress in Nafplio was an adventure filled with history. You can hike to the top or if time is of the essence you can take a taxi as we did. Either way, the breathtaking views were worth every bit of the effort. As we reached the top, the panoramic vista of Nafplio, with its winding streets and glistening bay, spread out before us like a picturesque postcard.
Built by the Venetians in the early 18th century, this imposing structure stands as a testament to centuries of history and strategic prowess. The fort was constructed of eight bastions, each self-contained, ensuring that if one bastion was breached the others could still be separately defended. The bastions were built one on top of the other and they all connected with one wall. The beautiful chapel of Agios Andreas is built within the central bastion, which was the best equipped of all the bastions and hence was used as the main headquarters. During the Turkish rule, Christians were not allowed in the chapel.
The struggle for Greek independence from the Turks began at Palamidi Fort. It was seized by Greek rebels on 29th of November in 1822. The next day, the abandoned chapel being cleared and prepared for a Christian service. The chapel has since then been consecrated to Apostle Andreas and 30th of November is celebrated as his feast day. Palamidi Fort was also used as a prison for a period of time after Greece's independence. Exploring the ancient bastions and soaking in the rich tales of its past made for an unforgettable start to the day!
Monemvasia, Greece Day 4 & 5, Definitely Worth the Sail
The Views Sailing into Monemvasia
From the moment I laid eyes on Monemvasia, Greece, it was love at first sight. The stunning ancient town, perched on a rock in the sea, captured my heart instantly. I was fascinated by the history of Monemvasia and the incredible restoration and renovation efforts that had preserved its medieval charm. Monemvasia is 50 nautical miles from Nafplio on the southeast of the Peloponnese Peninsula. It took about 5 hours, with a stop in Leonidio for lunch, on a motor Catamaran to sail that distance. If you are a repeat visitor to Greece or very interested in ancient history, I would strongly recommend you add Monemvaisa to your itinerary. For first timers, there are plenty of interesting islands closer to Athens.
Wandering through the narrow cobblestone streets and exploring the ancient ruins was a truly magical experience. We spent some time hiking the scenic trail around the island. The closer to the eastern point you get the steeper the trail becomes. We did an out and back to the point where it was very steep. This hike offers breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding countryside. You can find details about this hike on All Trails. We dined at charming restaurants, where we indulged in delicious Greek cuisine and shopped in the quaint boutiques. Monemvasia was truly a gem, on the Aegean Sea. We decided to extend our stay to two nights allowing us to soak up the beauty and history of this remarkable place.
Exploring the Old Town of Monemvasia
Exploring the Old Town of Monemvasia felt like walking straight into a postcard! As we made our way through the narrow, cobblestone streets, the brilliant colors of blooming bougainvillea contrasted with ancient stone walls, creating an enchanting blend of past and present. The air was filled with the subtle scent of the sea, and the azure waters sparkled under the warm Mediterranean sun. Friendly locals greeted us with warm smiles and a genuine "kalimera," making us feel right at home.
Monemvasia Greece was entirely carved on the backside of a sea rock in Medieval times. This huge sea rock is not visible from the mainland so that the locals could avoid enemy attacks. The only way to reach Monemvasia was by boat, while later on a paved pathway was constructed to connect the castle entrance to the mainland. This is how the name came out, meaning a single passage. A new town has been constructed on the mainland, just opposite the rock. A walk around the Castle Town is a travel to the past, while the sea view from the castle top is breathtaking.
Dinner at Skorpios, New Town Monemvasia
Skorpios is quayside in the charming new town of Monemvasia, Greece. It felt like entering a storybook filled with culinary delights. The bistro lights twinkled above us, as we selected a table with a view of old town Monemvasia. It was the perfect ambiance for what we were told would be a life-changing experience, lamb chops from Skorpios. The moment the lamb chops arrived, their enticing aroma filled the air and our anticipation grew tenfold. With the first bite, I was transported to a realm of flavors so exquisite that each succulent morsel seemed to tell a tale of Greek heritage and passion. Dining at Skorpios wasn't just a meal, it was an unforgettable journey through the heart of Monemvasia.
Exploring Old Town Monemvasia
The next morning, as we strolled through the enchanting ruins of Old Town Monemvasia, Greece, I felt transported back in time. The ancient stone pathways, lined with colorful bougainvillea and quaint, restored Byzantine churches, whispered stories of a bygone era. Modern renovations have breathed new life into the historic buildings, transforming them into charming boutique hotels, cozy tavernas, and artisan shops, all while preserving their medieval essence. The blend of old and new is utterly captivating, making every step a delightful journey through history and culture.
Lunch at To Kanino in Old Town Monemvasia
To Kanino, is in a beautifully restored building in the heart of old town Monemvasia. The rustic charm of the place, with its stone walls and wooden beams, set the perfect backdrop for a delightful lunch. We settled into a table and was soon savoring a plate of juicy local sausages bursting with flavor, perfectly paired with a slice of their wood-fired pizza, drizzled with fresh herbs and a zesty tomato sauce. Each bite was a explosion of tastes that made me smile and appreciate the unique blend of cultures right here in this stunning locale. Laughter and the distant sound of the sea filled the air, making this an unforgettable midday escape that rejuvenated our spirits after our mornings explorations.
Shopping for Provisions, Co0king on the Boat
Shopping for provisions in the new town of Monemvasia was an eye opening experience. As we strolled through the bustling streets, we make sure to stop by the local fish monger to pick out the freshest seafood caught from the crystal-clear waters surrounding the town. Next, we visit the friendly butcher who always had the most beautiful cuts of meat on display. And of course, no trip to the market is complete without stopping by the stand overflowing with locally grown fruits and vegetables. The colorful array of produce never fails to brighten my day and inspire me to whip up a delicious meal using the finest ingredients Monemvasia had to offer. Shopping for provisions in this charming town is not just a routine task, but a joyful experience that brings me closer to the heart of this culinary paradise. Dinner on our second night in Monemvasia was fresh fish grilled on the boat with a traditional Greek Salad, prepared by our Captain.
Hydra, A Return to Our Favorite Island
Staying in Mandraki Bay on Hydra is an absolute dream. In the morning, we were greeted by the crystal-clear waters and the sun rising over the charming, pastel-colored houses that dot the coastline. After savoring a delicious Greek coffee at a local taverna, we loved strolling along the charming cobbled streets, visiting quaint shops and art galleries that showcase the island’s culture. The best part is hiking the scenic trails that wind through the island’s rugged landscape. CaptK and I spent two weeks in a VRBO on the quay in Hydra Town before we started our charter. We often set out early to explore the lush hills, with stunning views of the Aegean Sea at every turn. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of fresh air and the sound of nature surrounding me. Check out all the trails Hydra offers on All Trails. Whether we are taking a leisurely hike or simply soaking up the sun by the bay at the Four Seasons Resort, every moment here on Hydra is a delightful escape!
Dinner at Techne, Hydra Greece
As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over Hydra, we found ourselves sipping on sundowner cocktails at the Sunset Restaurant. The world seemed to fade away with each refreshing sip, the delicious flavors mixing perfectly with the gentle breeze. After soaking in the breathtaking views, we strolled hand-in-hand with friends along the cobblestone streets, the sound of our laughter mingling with the soft lapping of waves. Dinner at Techne was an absolute delight, each dish a beautifully crafted masterpiece that tantalized my taste buds. This is by far our favorite restaurant on Hydra. After an extraordinary meal, we hopped on a water taxi, the cool evening air whipping through our hair as we glided back from the main harbor, the twinkling lights of the island creating a magical backdrop to our unforgettable evening.
Last Stop Sounion Bay, The Temple of Poseidon
As we sailed into Sounion Bay during our last stop on this incredible seven-day adventure, the excitement bubbling within me was palpable! The turquoise waters glistened under the sun, and as I gazed at the majestic ruins of the Temple of Poseidon perched atop the cliffs, I could hardly believe I was standing before a structure that has withstood the test of time since its construction in the 5th century BCE.
Built in honor of Poseidon, the god of the sea, it not only served as a sanctuary for weary sailors seeking safe passage but was also a stunning showcase of ancient Greek architecture. I could almost hear the whispers of history as we walked among the columns, imagining the sacrifices and celebrations that once took place here. This enchanting place, with its stunning views and rich heritage, felt like the perfect finale to our unforgettable journey at sea!
Marina Zea - Our Final Night on the Water
As the sun dipped below the horizon, lighting up the sky with candy colored shades, our last night on this unforgettable seven day sailing adventure was nothing short of magical. We moored back at Zea Marina and the gentle lapping of the waves was the perfect backdrop for our celebration. The air was filled with the mouthwatering scent of steaks sizzling on the grill, seasoned to perfection with spices from Monemvasia. Laughter echoed as we gathered on the deck, clinking glasses of local wine, reminiscing about our favorite moments while the stars began to twinkle above us. It felt like a perfect conclusion to a week of exploration and camaraderie, a night where every bite and every laugh tasted like freedom on the open sea.
What to Pack for Bareboating and Chartering?
Pack light. Use a duffel bag/soft outer casing bag that is easily unpacked and stored away. Bathing suit (2 or 3), swimsuit cover-up (for ladies), lightweight, quick dry shorts, tee shirts/tank tops, 1-2 lightweight tee shirt or sun dresses (for ladies) Flip flops or Teva type sandals (you will not wear shoes on the boat). Some type of hiking shoes, I usually wear Tevas. Hat (good sun coverage) and long sleeve SPF shirts a good idea, as well. Greece is casual. Except for a few fine dining places, dress shorts are acceptable for ladies at dinner. Shorts with a collared shirt are acceptable for men at dinner. Usually, we do not wash clothes. The boats has towels, blankets, and pillows already stocked.
Toiletries - we bring biodegradable soap and leave in spray conditioner. Bring toothpaste and any other clean up items. Keep makeup and hair stuff to a minimum - we go full mermaid in the islands. Bring reef safe sunscreen (lotion better than spray) and lip balm with SPF. Remember to pack any meds you need and sunglasses. There are showers onboard but we typically shower on the back deck before bed. Don’t bring pillows or anything too bulky. We will unpack and then store the bags away in a storage hold for the whole week.
Boat Bag Contents
We have a "boat bag" that we bring on every bare boating trip. It includes the following: dry bags, bio degradable soap (we like Johnson's baby wash and shampoo), scuba shirts (we are cold water wimps), Cruising Guide for the area, solar inflatable light, HD mask and snorkel, flashlight, multi-tool, bungy cord, Tide pen, seasickness medicine, blue tooth sound box, phone charger, multiple outlet plug-in, travel backgammon set, underwater camera and charger. Also consider packing, clothespins and binoculars. These come standard on Moorings Boats. All the items are available in my Amazon Store Bareboating List.
Conclusion
This 7-day adventure through the Aegean Sea was more than just a vacation; it was a journey through time, culture, and flavors. Each port held its own unique charm and story, and each meal was a celebration of the Aegean’s rich culinary heritage.
If you’re looking for a truly immersive and enchanting travel experience, setting sail on the Aegean should be at the top of your list. Until our next adventure, safe travels and bon appétit! Fair winds and following seas.
If you have any questions about Bareboating, please leave them in the comments section or send me an email at mytravelingtastes@gmail.com.
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Recommended Tours for Athens:
Here are my best recommendations for Hotels in Athens:
For a luxury experience: Grande Bretagne Hotel
For a more budget friendly experience: NEW Hotel
Here are my best recommendations for Hotels
throughout Greece:
Eretria, Evia - Elia Luxury Apartments
Elounda, Crete - Elounda Heights Hotel
Agios Nikolaos, Crete - Ikaros Art Hotel
Nea Chora, Crete - Sea & Town Getaway
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